Laminated Flooring Installation Tips
When investing in a new floating laminate floor or any other flooring one should take precaution to assure that the floor will not only look great but also perform great. Here are a few tips on laminate flooring installation that will assist you in achieving your goals.
While the requirement of one manufacturer may differ from another the following information is common to many manufacturers. When purchasing a floor always obtain and read the installation instructions for the floor you are purchasing. The instructions for most laminate manufacturers may be found by clicking here.
Unfortunately as flooring inspectors we see many installations where the person installing the floor claimed to be an expert but did not install the floor as required by the manufacturer. Failing to follow the manufacturers installation instructions is a huge laminate floor problem as it often voids the warranty.
Subfloor Requirements of a floating floor
Concrete
- Perform a mat test to check for moisture. If any indication of a high moisture content perform a calcium chloride test. Moisture content should not exceed 2.5% on a dry weight basis or the floor may fail.
- New concrete needs to cure for a minimum of 60 days.
- Use an approved vapor barrier. Most companies require a vapor barrier even when the floor is covered by vinyl, linoleum, tile or sheet flooring.
Vinyl & Linoleum Subfloor
- Usually you can install over these if they are clean and level.
Wall-to-Wall Carpeting
- This is the one floor that most floating floors cannot be installed over and it needs to be removed unless approved by the manufacturer. If the carpet is glue down be sure to thoroughly clean the surface of glue residues.
Ceramic Tile and Stone Subfloor
- These will normally not require removal but they must be leveled to within 5 mm in a 3 m radius. A vapor barrier may be required, particularly over concrete.
Hardwood Subfloor
- Test for moisture content, it must be stable and between 6 and 10%.
- Correct the floor to eliminate any movement. If the subfloor sags, inspect the joist below for twist or weakness. If the subfloor is uneven or cupped at the joist, recheck the moisture making sure it is in the 6 – 10% range.
- Check for excessive moisture in the crawl space or basement including signs of potential water problems.
- Sand or plane high areas and patch or fill low areas with an appropriate leveling compound, or cover with a rigid underlayment.
- Do not use a vapor barrier on top of wood floors.
Acclimation of Laminate Flooring
The manufacturers of most laminate floors require the cartons of flooring to be acclimated for 48 to 72 hours prior to installation. Acclimation requires conditioning of the flooring material at or near occupancy level. Check the installation instructions to see how they want the material stacked for installation and if the cartons are to be opened or left unopened.
The flooring material needs to be acclimated in the area of installation. This means that if the laminate is to be installed in the family room it should be acclimated in that room.
Storing the laminate flooring in the garage is not acclimation even if the garage is attached. Storage of the material at the store or warehouse of the dealer or installer is not acclimation unless the floor is to be installed in the store or warehouse.
Not all laminate manufacturers require acclimation. If the dealer or installer says it is not necessary to acclimate insist that they show you where the manufacturer states that in writing. Don’t make the manufacturers, dealers or installers problem yours. If they say that the floor does not require acclimation insist on getting this in writing.
When a floor acclimates the product is adjusting to the humidity of the area of installation.
All wet work in the area of installation such as plastering and painting must be completed prior to the start of acclimation. All windows and doors must be installed prior to the start of acclimation. The heating and air conditioning system must be operational at or near occupancy levels. If installing over concrete the concrete should have been tested and found to be at acceptable levels for the installation of the laminate.
When a floor is not acclimated prior to installation it can be hard to click together chipping or damaging the edges of the laminate. A floor that is not acclimated to its environment is more likely to experience problems such as expansion, tenting, squeaking and buckling after installation.
If you are unsure of the laminate manufacturers installation requirements a copy of them is often contained in each carton. Most manufacturers’ installation instructions are also available on LaminateFloorProblems.com
Laminate Floor Manufacturer Installation & Care Instructions
For the contact information, installation and care instructions of a laminate manufacturer click on a link below. If you need the installation or care instructions of a manufacturer that is not listed, contact Laminate Floor Problems and we will add that manufacturer if available.
Dream Home Laminate Flooring
Konecto Laminate & Vinyl Floor
Laminate Floor Problems and Concerns
Laminate Floor Problems
Delamination
When the laminate releases from the core material this results in delamination.
Delamination may be seen in the field of the blank as a bubble.
Delamination may also be found along an edge.
When an area of delamination continues across the seam of the planks this is almost always a site related condition.
Core Voids in surface of Laminate Floor
- Core voids are indentations in the face of the laminate floor.
- The best way to tell a manufacturing core void from a dent caused by a dropped object is the absence of stress cracks. A dropped object usually leaves cracks while a core void does not.
Bumps or Blisters in Laminate Face
Blisters are small bumps in the finish of the laminate floor. These bumps often look like a pimple and can be very difficult to see during installation.
Chatter Marks
Chatter marks appear as wavy bands or lines across the width of the plank.
Chatter mark bands can be very difficult to see during installation and are most visible with reflective light.
Proud Edges
Proud edges are seen as a difference in height at the joints of the laminate plank.
Proud edges can be found on the side or end.
Most laminate flooring manufacturers consider proud edges up to 0.1mm acceptable and within manufacturing tolerance.
Some manufacturers have different or expanded tolerances. As an example Pergo considers proud edges up to 0.2mm acceptable if they do not affect the appearance or function of the floor. Pergo also considers 5 or less proud edges per 300 sq. ft. acceptable.
Micro Chipping
Micro chipping is seen as continuous small chips along the edge of the plank.
The chips usually appear white in color.
These chips occur during milling of the laminate plank as the result of a dull milling tool.
Color Deviations
Some manufacturers state that there will not be a color difference between runs. When this is stated a color difference between runs is the laminate manufactures floor problem.
A color difference would be a difference in hue, shade or gloss.
At times what appears as a color difference is actually the installation of two different colors of laminate floor. If the carton labels or plank markings show this to be the same style and color this is a manufacture related condition.
If the packaging shows that these were different styles or colors the manufacturer will unlikely warrant the difference and this laminate flooring problem will be between the consumer and supplier or retailer.
Fading
- Fading warranties differ with each manufacturer.
- Some laminate flooring manufacturers guarantee their floor not to fade due to sun or electrical lighting.
Gaps and Glue Voids (Glued Floors)
- A feeler gauge is used to indicate a gap in the glue and to measure the size of the gap.
- Voids or gaps in the glue will allow moisture to penetrate at the seam resulting in swelling along the plank edges.
Water Damage Laminate Floor
Water Damage to Laminate Flooring
Plumbing and Appliance Leaks
Water damage from plumbing and appliance leaks such as dishwashers, water heaters, washing machines and ice makers can result in buckling of a laminate floor. Often these leaks are very slow and go unnoticed.
Slow leaks are often difficult to identify as they are below the laminate where they penetrate into the laminates core material.
While you may not see the leak an inspector can tell that excess moisture is there by use of a moisture meter.
Flooding
Severe plumping leaks such as a pipe break or overflowing toilet will usually result in buckling of a laminate floor.
Water Damage to Laminate Floor From Concrete
Moisture can enter into the back of a laminate floor resulting in cupping. An entire floor may cup from a concrete floor that is too wet. This can occur even when a vapor barrier has been used below the laminate floor.
Testing for Moisture
All concrete floors should be tested for moisture prior to installation of the laminate floor covering.
Newly poured concrete should be allowed to cure for at least 60 days prior to installation of the laminate floor.
There are a number of ways to tests for moisture. Many of these such as electronic testing and calcium chloride testing should be performed by companies such as The Weinheimer Group LLC that have the proper training and equipment.
Easy Consumer or Installer Test for Concrete Moisture
Below is a test that can be used inexpensively, without training. This test is acceptable by many laminate flooring manufacturers.
Materials:
- 6 mil polyethylene film
- Duct tape.
Procedure:
- Using duct tape completely seal a 2′ x 2′ section of the polyethylene film down to an area of clean concrete. It is best to do this in several locations where the laminate floor is to be installed. At least one test per 500 square feet.
- After 72 hours remove the plastic. (one week is better)
- If the concrete is dark or wet below the plastic the subfloor is too wet to install a laminate floor.
Water Damage Maintenance and Pet Damage
- Spills and improper wet cleaning of a laminate floor can cause swelling at the laminate joints. This is often seen as puffy areas along the edge of the planks and frequently crosses between plank edges.
- The most common cause of edge swelling over a large area is wet mopping or using popular floor cleaning equipment such as but not limited to the Swiffer Wet Jet.
- Sometimes it takes a year or two of use before maintenance related issues start to show up. Some floors may never experience noticeable damage by these cleaning methods and others will experience severe damage. Water damage is rarely covered by the laminate manufacturer.
- Spills and damage from pet urine are usually localized and show as swelled areas between planks. This is a site related condition and not a laminate floor problem and will almost never covered by a manufacturer warranty.
Sealant Around Laminate Edges
- Some laminate flooring manufacturers require a sealant to be used around objects such as sliding glass doors, kitchen cabinets, water hearers and in other areas prone to leaks and moisture.
- The proper sealant must be used to prevent lock in of the floor.
- The sealant must be properly applied or voids will be left for moisture to enter.
- Failure to use a sealant as specified by the laminate flooring manufacturer can void a warranty.
Laminate Floor Plank Alignment
Staggering of Laminate Floor
Laminate flooring manufacturers require their floors to be staggered anywhere from 8 to 12 inches or more. (See manufacturers installation instructions.)
A floating floor that is not staggered will look odd.
A floating floor not staggered properly will compromise its strength and structural stability.
The planks in the photo above have not been staggered. Not only does this look bad, the floor will not perform properly.
Out of Rack Laminate Floor
Planks must be installed tightly together on both the short and long sides.
When the laminate flooring is not installed tightly together a wedge shaped gap known as “Out of Rack” will occur.
Expansion Space Around Walls and Fixed Objects
Expansion Space Walls and Fixed Objects
During laminate floor installation the proper expansion space must be left around all walls and vertical surfaces.
Without the proper expansion space a floor may buckle and gap due to the normal expansion and contraction of the laminate floating floor.
Expansion space must be left around fixed objects such as pipes, cabinets, fireplace hearths, sliding glass door tracks, floor outlets, floor vents and thresholds.
The size of the required expansion space can range from 1/8″ to more than 1/4″ depending upon the manufacturer and product.
The failure to leave proper expansion space locks in the floor and can resulting in buckling or tenting of the floor and separation at the floor joints.
An installer must also be careful not to leave a space wider than the door base or molding that is used along the wall or other fixed object to cover the expansion space.
On floating floors that click together the problem is often seen as gaps developing at the seams.
When a floor is tenting upward and lifting off of the subfloor it is obvious that the laminate has expanded and is locked in at some point.
T-Molding
Most laminate manufacturers require that a T-Molding be installed at all doorways under 4 feet wide.
The T-Molding allows the laminate floating floor to expand and contract.
Failure to use the T-Molding will often cause the laminate floor to tent, buckle or develop gaps.
Do not fasten T-Molding through the laminate floor or with fasteners against the edge of the laminate floor as this will lock the floor in.
Under Cutting Door Jambs
Door Jambs need to be undercut to allow for expansion space.
When a jamb is undercut as poorly as seen in photograph this is an installation related concern.
When door casings are not undercut and the floor is locked in this also becomes an installation related concern.
Install Laminate Flooring Subfloor Flat and Level Requirement
Unlevel Subfloor Below Laminate Flooring
Most laminate floor manufacturers require a subfloor to be flat within 3/16″ over a 10 foot radius.
Since not all laminate manufacturers have the same standard you need to check the installation instructions for the manufacturer of the floor being installed.
Some manufacturers instructions will use the word level instead of flat while they are actually speaking of the floor being free of high or low spots.
A subfloor that does not meet the laminate manufacturers installation requirements must be leveled by sanding or filled with an approved floor patching material.
On a floating floor gaps can easily develop between planks when a subfloor is not level.
