Expansion Space Walls and Fixed Objects
During laminate floor installation the proper expansion space must be left around all walls and vertical surfaces.
Without the proper expansion space a floor may buckle and gap due to the normal expansion and contraction of the laminate floating floor.
Expansion space must be left around fixed objects such as pipes, cabinets, fireplace hearths, sliding glass door tracks, floor outlets, floor vents and thresholds.
The size of the required expansion space can range from 1/8″ to more than 1/4″ depending upon the manufacturer and product.
The failure to leave proper expansion space locks in the floor and can resulting in buckling or tenting of the floor and separation at the floor joints.
An installer must also be careful not to leave a space wider than the door base or molding that is used along the wall or other fixed object to cover the expansion space.
On floating floors that click together the problem is often seen as gaps developing at the seams.
When a floor is tenting upward and lifting off of the subfloor it is obvious that the laminate has expanded and is locked in at some point.
T-Molding
Most laminate manufacturers require that a T-Molding be installed at all doorways under 4 feet wide.
The T-Molding allows the laminate floating floor to expand and contract.
Failure to use the T-Molding will often cause the laminate floor to tent, buckle or develop gaps.
Do not fasten T-Molding through the laminate floor or with fasteners against the edge of the laminate floor as this will lock the floor in.
Under Cutting Door Jambs
Door Jambs need to be undercut to allow for expansion space.
When a jamb is undercut as poorly as seen in photograph this is an installation related concern.
When door casings are not undercut and the floor is locked in this also becomes an installation related concern.
About Terry Weinheimer | Kevin Weinheimer
how do I install around a fireplace that is set at a 45 degree angle?
Cut your laminate at a 45 degree angle leaving the required expansion space.
what is the best way to fix this problem (http://laminatefloorproblems.com/wp-content/uploads/2009/09/laminate-flooring-installation-issues-300×225.jpg)
when there is space left between the floor and door jamb?
Undercut the door jambs and replace the boards would be the best way.
Somebody else installed laminate flooring in my house that I just bought and it is tenting around the fireplace, but laying flat everywhere else. How do i fix this?
The floor is likely locked in around the fireplace and you need to add expansion space so the floor will float the way it is designed to.
When you have purchased a high end laminate, it was seasoned for 3 days, and within 6~8 months of installation you begin to find gaps at the end of your planks; as though the planks are beginning to separate from the connection plank? This is not happening on the sides, only on the ends. What causes this? Some of these gaps are over 1/4″ in width.
There are a number of possible causes from manufacturing to site related to installation related or even a combination of causes. You should file a claim with the dealer you purchased the floor from and ask that the floor be inspected.
I was wondering about the vapor barrier and how it should lay at a T molding transition. My T molding instructions recommend gluing it if the subfloor is concrete and screwing it if it is wood. Do I cut my vapor barrier (*Note*–I already laid the barrier and flooring and left a gap in the installed floor for the T molding, at bedroom/hallway) and glue the T molding track to the cement slab or do I glue it right to the vapor barrier? And if I cut it will it negate the vapor barrier? Please help.
Dan, It sounds like you are talking about the track that the transition snaps into. If you glue directly to the vapor barrier the track for the transition will not be held solidly in place. My suggestion would be to also screw the track to the concrete so that the vapor barrier is not compromised. You would need to drill into the concrete and use anchors to hold the screws.
If others have suggestions please share.
Terry
I bought a house with laminate floor. They did not under cut the door frames. Can I fill it with something to make it look less noticeable?
Thanks,
Holly
worker just installed laminate floor in our basement w/ subfloor underneath. but when we walk on it, it’s bouncy or warp. They said it’s normal becoz it is a floating laminate, pls tell me what is the best solution to resolve this problem, really NEED YOUR ADVICE thank you…
Holy, The gaps can be filled using a flexible silicone caulk in a close matching color. You should be able to find flexible silicone caulk at a hardware store, building supply store or a big box store. Unfortunately if they did not properly fit the floor around the door casings there are likely to be other problems that exist with the installation so you might want to get in touch with the party you purchased the home from.
Terry
Gerry
You may feel some bounce on a laminate floor but usually this is not normal. Bounce is usually the result of problems such as improper acclimation, a locked in condition at walls or other fixed objects, failure to use “T” stye transition where needed such as in doorways, wall or door trim nailed through the laminate, flexing underlayment or moisture concerns resulting in expansion. Unfortunately I cannot give you the best solution without knowing which of these concerns it might be or it could be one of a number of other concerns less frequently seen. I would suggest that you either file a complaint with the dealer you purchased the floor from if they installed it or the contractor you used. If you get no satisfaction you might consider having the floor looked at by a flooring expert such as the flooring inspectors found at nicfi.org.
Good luck, Terry