A solid spot on the printed design in a laminate floor is a print error. While this is a manufacturer related deficiency planks with an obvious printing error should not be installed. Once installed the manufacturer will usually pass the problem on to the installer and may only cover the cost of the replacement board when reported in a timely matter.

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• Laminate Floor Problems and Concerns

When investing in a new floating laminate floor or any other flooring one should take precaution to assure that the floor will not only look great but also perform great. Here are a few tips on laminate flooring installation that will assist you in achieving your goals.

While the requirement of one manufacturer may differ from another the following information is common to many manufacturers. When purchasing a floor always obtain and read the installation instructions for the floor you are purchasing. The instructions for most laminate manufacturers may be found by clicking here.

Unfortunately as flooring inspectors we see many installations where the person installing the floor claimed to be an expert but did not install the floor as required by the manufacturer. Failing to follow the manufacturers installation instructions is a huge laminate floor problem as it often voids the warranty.

Subfloor Requirements of a floating floor

Concrete

• Perform a mat test to check for moisture. If any indication of a high moisture content perform a calcium chloride test.  Moisture content should not exceed 2.5% on a dry weight basis or the floor may fail.
• New concrete needs to cure for a minimum of 60 days.
• Use an approved vapor barrier.  Most companies require a vapor barrier even when the floor is covered by vinyl, linoleum, tile or sheet flooring.

Vinyl & Linoleum Subfloor

• Usually you can install over these if they are clean and level.

Wall-to-Wall Carpeting

• This is the one floor that most floating floors cannot be installed over and it needs to be removed unless approved by the manufacturer.  If the carpet is glue down be sure to thoroughly clean the surface of glue residues.

Ceramic Tile and Stone Subfloor

• These will normally not require removal but they must be leveled to within 5 mm in a 3 m radius.  A vapor barrier may be required, particularly over concrete.

Hardwood Subfloor

• Test for moisture content, it must be stable and between 6 and 10%.
• Correct the floor to eliminate any movement.  If the subfloor sags, inspect the joist below for twist or weakness.  If the subfloor is uneven or cupped at the joist, recheck the moisture making sure it is in the 6 – 10% range.
• Check for excessive moisture in the crawl space or basement including signs of potential water problems.
• Sand or plane high areas and patch or fill low areas with an appropriate leveling compound, or cover with a rigid underlayment.
• Do not use a vapor barrier on top of wood floors.

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• Laminate Flooring Terms

Acclimation: The adaptation of the laminate floor to its installation environment.

Backer (Backing): In laminated flooring the bottom layer is called backer layer or balancing layer and is usually made from a resin-impregnated Kraft paper. The backer is designed to be the same weight as the wearlayer to provide balance and stability. If the backer is lighter or heavier than the wearlayer, the boards will cup or bow after installation and cannot be repaired.

Base Shoe: Similar to quarter round in profile, it is a molding designed for attaching to a base molding to cover the expansion space.

Bow: In lumber the distortion in which there is a deviation, in a direction perpendicular to the flat face as measured from a straight line from end to end.

Chipboard: Paperboard formulated for a variety of purposes and under a variety of specifications including two of the more common that may or may not be included are strength and color. It is usually fabricated from paper stock with a relatively low density in the thickness of 0.006 inch and up.

Core: In laminated flooring, the core provides for strength and impact resistance and can be made from high or medium-density fiberboard, particle (chipboard, or polyurethane foam. Particleboard and fiberboard are produced from compressed wood fibers mixed with bonding agents and is vulnerable to moisture.

Crook: The distortion that occurs within a board that has a deviation in a direction perpendicular to the edge, from a straight line from end to end of the piece.

Crosspull: A condition that occurs at an end-joint with the ends of flooring strips pulled in opposite directions.

Crowning: A “convex” or “crowned” condition or appearance where the center of individual strips becomes higher than the edges. (Opposite of cupping.)

Cupping: A “concave” or “dished” condition or appearance where the center of individual strips becomes lower than the edges. (Opposite of crowning.)

Cure: The change of adhesives properties by chemical reaction (which may be condensation, polymerization, or vulcanization) resulting in the development of maximum strength. Commonly accomplished by the action of heat or a catalyst, with or without pressure.

Decorative Layer: In laminate flooring, a decorative layer or print film is adhered on top of the core board giving the floor its hardwood or tile look. This decorative layer is a printed, high-resolution photo-reproduction of wood grain, natural stone or laminate tile pattern.

Delamination: The separation of layers in a laminate, through failure within the adhesive or at the bond between the adhesive and laminate.

Distressed: Creation of an antique or timeworn appearance by creating an artificial texture of a floor by techniques such as scraping, scratching and gouging.

Dry Wall: Interior covering material, such as hardboard, plywood or gypsum board that is applied in large sheets or panels.

End Joint: The joint created where two pieces of flooring are joined end to end.

End Molding/Carpet Reducer: Used as a transition from laminate floors to different flooring surfaces when the reducer does not allow enough height, such as on high-pile carpet or thick laminate tile.

Equilibrium Moisture Content: The moisture content at which a wood neither gains nor loses moisture when surrounded by air at a given relative humidity and temperature.

Expansion: In laminate expansion is growth resulting from an increase in moisture.

Fiberboard: A widely used generic term that is inclusive of sheet materials of widely varying densities manufactured of refined or partially refined wood or vegetable fibers. A variety of materials and bonding agents are added to increase strength, resistance to moisture, fire or decay and to improve other qualities.

Filler: 1. In woodworking, any substance that is used to fill the holes and irregularities in planed or sanded surfaces to decrease the porosity of the surface before applying a finish coat. 2. A wood putty, plastic wood or other material that is used to fill cracks, knot holes, worm holes, etc.

Fire Resistance: A materials ability to withstand fire or give protection from it.

Fire Retardant: A chemical or preparation of chemicals that is used to retard the spread of fire over the surface or to reduce flammability.

Flakeboard: A particle panel that is composed of flakes.

Flame Spread: The development of a flame away from its source of ignition such as across the surface of a liquid or a solid, or through the volume of a gaseous mixture.

Floating Floor: Floating floor is a term that describes a method of installing a floor rather than a specific type of flooring material. In this method, the individual planks or boards attach to each other. A padded underlayment sits between the subfloor and the laminate planks. The planks sit directly on the underlayment and are not anchored to the subfloor on the bottom but rather are anchored on the edges.

Glued Laminate Flooring: These are the original laminate floors that do require a special formulated glue to be applied to the tongue and grooved areas for each plank. Once the glue is dried the planks are almost impossible to pull apart. These floors are offered in both planks and squares.

Glueless Laminate Flooring: An installation method where the planks or squares simply interlock together.

High Pressure Laminate: Laminates molded and cured at pressures not lower than 1,000 lb per sq in. (70 kg per sq cm) and more commonly in the range of 1,200 to 2,000 lb per sq in. (84 to 140 kg per sq cm).

Hydroscopic: The ability of a substance to absorb and retain moisture or lose or throw off moisture. Wood as a hydroscopic material expands with the absorption of water and shrinks with the loss of moisture.

Joist: Parallel beam used in series to support floor or ceiling loads and supported in turn by larger beams, girders, or bearing walls.

Laminate: A manufactured product that simulates the look of hardwood, laminate tile, natural stone and many other types of flooring.

Laminate Flooring: Laminate flooring is a hard surface floor covering consisting of a fiberboard core, printed paper pattern with a melamine wear layer and backing and usually with a tongue and groove construction for ease of installation.

Laminated Wood: An assembly that is made by bonding layers of materials with an adhesive. 2. Sometimes referred to edge-glued lumber items such as treads, etc.

Manufacturing Defects: Defects or blemishes that develop during manufacturing.

Melamine Resin: A resin used to help improve the moisture resistance and durability of the core board of laminate flooring.

Moldings: Trim pieces that cover the space that is allowed for the flooring to expand and move naturally on top of the subfloor. Also used as the transition to an adjacent floor. Moldings for laminate floors are usually slightly larger than their wood or laminate tile counterparts.

Moisture Content: The amount of moisture expressed as a percentage of the weight of the oven dry wood.

Nosing: A trim used to cover the outside corner of a step.

Oriented Strand Board: A particle panel composed of strand-type flakes with purposefully aligned directions which make a panel stronger, stiffer, and with improved dimensional properties in the alignment directions than a panel composed of random flake orientation.

Overlapping Stair Nosing: A nosing that is similar to a flush stair nosing except the nose overlaps the exposed edge of your floor. The overlapping stair nosing is secured to the sub floor and not to the laminate floor so the floor remains free to move.

Particleboard: A generic term for a material manufactured from wood particles or other cellulosic material and a binder.

Peaking Seams: Laminate plank edges that have risen at the joint.

Plank: A laminate floor panel that is typically 5 or 6 inches wide.

Plugs: Dowels that simulate the Colonial American plugged or pegged plank appearance.

Prefinished: A floor that is finished during the manufacturing process and requires installation only.

Pre-Glued Laminate : A laminate flooring that has the glue already applied to the tongue and grooves. A thin, plastic underlayment is needed to seal out moisture and prevent the glue from sticking to the substrate.

Quarter Round Trim: A trim that is installed where the laminate floor meets the wall or baseboard.

Reducer Strip: The transitional piece installers use to connect the laminate with another type of floor covering such as vinyl, thin laminate tile, or low-pile carpeting.

Relative Humidity: A ration of the amount of water vapor that is present in the air to that which the air would hold at saturation at the same temperature. While usually considered on the basis of the weight of the vapor, for accuracy it should be considered on the basis of vapor pressures.

Screens: The quality of the laminate partially has to do with the photography and the number of photographs per style, which is known as “screens”. The more screens a product has, the more variation it can offer. And the more “authentic” the laminate looks.

Seams: The junction where the panels connect together.

Square Nosing / Universal Edge: Used where the laminate flooring butts up to carpeting, or various vertical surfaces where the edge will be exposed, such as along a fireplace.

Stain: A discoloration that develops in or on a floor and is other than the natural color.

Stud: Structural unit used as supporting element in walls and partitions.

Surface-Finish: A finish material, which penetrates the pores of the wood, providing a finish that is in the wood rather than on the surface.

Step Down Stair Nose: A coordinating molding piece providing the proper transition for all the steps in a home.

Tile: A laminate panel in a geometric shape – square.

T-Molding: Commonly used in doorways to join two laminate floors in adjoining rooms. It’s also recommended when making transitions from a laminate floor to another floor that is approximately the same height.

Underlayment: A material used between the laminate flooring and the subfloor that acts as a sound and moisture barrier and also allows the floor to expand and contract with changes in the temperature. V-Joint: A plank flooring term that indicates that the edges are eased or beveled to simulate cracks in floors of early Colonial American homes.

Vapor Barrier: A material with a high resistance to vapor movement that is used to control condensation or prevent migration of moisture.

Waferboard: A particle panel product that is made of wafer-type flakes. It is usually produced to provide equal properties in all directions parallel to the plane of the panel.

Wearlayer: In laminated flooring the wearlayer usually consist of multiple layers of Kraft paper that has been impregnated with phenolic resins and pressed together under high heat and pressure. This is the HPL (high-pressure lamination) process, the first step of the CPL (continuous pressure lamination) process, the second being the attachment of the wearlayer and backer layer to the core. The bottom layer of Kraft paper is imprinted with a photograph that provides the floors pattern or design.

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The manufacturers of most laminate floors require the cartons of flooring to be acclimated for 48 to 72 hours prior to installation.  Acclimation requires conditioning of the flooring material at or near occupancy level. Check the installation instructions to see how they want the material stacked for installation and if the cartons are to be opened or left unopened.

The flooring material needs to be acclimated in the area of installation. This means that if the laminate is to be installed in the family room it should be acclimated in that room.

Storing the laminate flooring in the garage is not acclimation even if the garage is attached. Storage of the material at the store or warehouse of the dealer or installer is not acclimation unless the floor is to be installed in the store or warehouse.

Not all laminate manufacturers require acclimation. If the dealer or installer says it is not necessary to acclimate insist that they show you where the manufacturer states that in writing. Don’t make the manufacturers, dealers or installers problem yours. If they say that the floor does not require acclimation insist on getting this in writing.

When a floor acclimates the product is adjusting to the humidity of the area of installation.

All wet work in the area of installation such as plastering and painting must be completed prior to the start of acclimation.  All windows and doors must be installed prior to the start of acclimation. The heating and air conditioning system must be operational at or near occupancy levels. If installing over concrete the concrete should have been tested and found to be at acceptable levels for the installation of the laminate.

When a floor is not acclimated prior to installation it can be hard to click together chipping or damaging the edges of the laminate. A floor that is not acclimated to its environment is more likely to experience problems such as expansion, tenting, squeaking and buckling after installation.

If you are unsure of the laminate manufacturers installation requirements a copy of them is often contained in each carton. Most manufacturers’ installation instructions are also available on LaminateFloorProblems.com

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For the contact information, installation and care instructions of a laminate manufacturer click on a link below.  If you need the installation or care instructions of a manufacturer that is not listed, contact  Laminate Floor Problems and we will add that manufacturer if available.

Abet Laminati Flooring

Alloc Laminate Flooring

Armstrong Laminate Flooring

Balterio Laminate Flooring

BHK Laminate Flooring

Bruce Laminate Flooring

Classen Laminate Flooring

Columbia Laminate Flooring

Dream Home Laminate Flooring

DuPont Laminate Flooring

Faus Laminate Flooring

Harmonics Laminate Flooring

Ikea Laminate Flooring

Konecto Laminate & Vinyl Floor

Kronotex Laminate Flooring

Mohawk Laminate Flooring

Mannington Laminate Flooring

Pergo Laminate Flooring

Poliface Laminate Flooring

Quick Step Laminate Flooring

Shaw Laminate Flooring

Swiftlock Laminate Flooring

Tarkett Laminate Flooring

Uniboard Laminate Flooring

Uniclic Laminate Flooring

Wilsonart Laminate Flooring

Witex Laminate Flooring

Chipped Plank Corners

It is the responsibility of the installer to check all planks prior to installing.

Most all laminate manufacturers take the view that when you install a damaged plank such as one with a chip in it, this becomes your responsibility and not theirs.

Chips at plank corners, especially those that cross over between planks are caused either during the installation process or by a dropped object.

When a chip is located at a single plank corner, this is usually a plank that was installed damaged or became damaged during installation.

An installer must be careful not to install a plank with a chipped corner and if it chips during installation it should be pulled at that time and replaced with a different plank.

Dents, Gouges, Indentations in Laminate Floor

Dents: Like floors of wood and bamboo, laminate floors are subject to denting when a heavy object is dropped on it.

Dents from dropped objects will have stress cracks around the edge of the dent.

Indentations or Gouges: Heavy objects being rolled across a laminate floor can cause indentations or deep gouges.

Laminate Scratching and Scuffing

While some over zealous sales people tend to sell laminate floor as being indestructible most laminate flooring manufacturers state that their floor is scratch resistant. Do not confuse scratch resistant with scratch proof as this is not the same. Usually scratches are not covered by a manufacturers warranty.

Scratch Prevention: Use felt protector on all furniture legs. Keep animal nails trimmed. Place an area rug at all entrances to catch gritty soil and debris. Shoes can trap debris in the soles and scratch a floor. Avoid using hard plastic toys on a laminate floor as hard plastics can abrade a laminate finish.

Caster Damage to Laminate Floor

• The proper caster must be used on office and other rolling chairs.

• Some manufacturers state that an office chair must have at least 5 casters.

Most laminate flooring manufactures state that rubber casters need to be used as both metal and plastic casters will cause, indentations, abrasions, scratching or scuffing to the surface of the laminate floor.

Improper casters such as metal and hard plastics can also cause chipping along the edge of the planks.

Tapping Block Damage

A tapping block is sometimes used by the installer to join the short ends of the planks.

When a tapping block is used improperly or an objects such as a hammer is used, or planks are kicked together this can damage plank edges.

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Interior Vapor Barrier Over Concrete Subfloor

When a laminate floating floor is installed over a concrete subfloor a moisture barrier must be used.

Failure to install a proper vapor barrier over concrete will likely result in a floor expanding. This will cause laminate floor problems such as cupping and gaps.

Always check a manufacturers installation instructions prior to installation to assure that proper procedures are followed and proper materials are used.

Do Not Use a Vapor Barrier on Wood Sub Floors

It is important to note that you DO NOT install a vapor barrier over a wood subfloor. Over wood a vapor barrier will trap moisture and cause damage. Some laminate underlayments are a combination of vapor barrier and foam so take care in selection.

A foam or other type underlayment approved by the laminate manufacturer needs to be used for installation over wood subfloor.

Vapor Barrier in Crawl Space Requirement

Crawl  spaces must have a proper vapor barrier ground cover spread over the soil. A crawl space must also have proper cross ventilation and no dead air spaces. Without the appropriate vapor barrier and cross ventilation, crawl space moisture will attack the underside of a subfloor and the back of the laminate flooring core. Excessive crawl space moisture may result in cupping of the laminate floor.

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Laminate Floor Problems

Delamination

When the laminate releases from the core material this results in delamination.

Delamination may be seen in the field of the blank as a bubble.
Delamination may also be found along an edge.

When an area of delamination continues across the seam of the planks this is almost always a site related condition.

Core Voids in surface of Laminate Floor

• Core voids are indentations in the face of the laminate floor.
• The best way to tell a manufacturing core void from a dent caused by a dropped object is the absence of stress cracks. A dropped object usually leaves cracks while a core void does not.

Bumps or Blisters in Laminate Face

Blisters are small bumps in the finish of the laminate floor. These bumps often look like a pimple and can be very difficult to see during installation.

Chatter Marks

Chatter marks appear as wavy bands or lines across the width of the plank.

Chatter mark bands can be very difficult to see during installation and are most visible with reflective light.

Proud Edges

Proud edges are seen as a difference in height at the joints of the laminate plank.

Proud edges can be found on the side or end.
Most laminate flooring manufacturers consider proud edges up to 0.1mm  acceptable and within manufacturing tolerance.

Some manufacturers have different or expanded tolerances. As an example Pergo considers proud edges up to 0.2mm acceptable if they do not affect the appearance or function of the floor. Pergo also considers 5 or less proud edges per 300 sq. ft. acceptable.

Micro Chipping

Micro chipping is seen as continuous small chips along the edge of the plank.

The chips usually appear white in color.

These chips occur during milling of the laminate plank as the result of a dull milling tool.

Color Deviations

Some manufacturers state that there will not be a color difference between runs. When this is stated a color difference between runs is the laminate manufactures floor problem.

A color difference would be a difference in hue, shade or gloss.

At times what appears as a color difference is actually the installation of two different colors of laminate floor. If the carton labels or plank markings show this to be the same style and color this is a manufacture related condition.

If the packaging shows that these were different styles or colors the manufacturer will unlikely warrant the difference and this laminate flooring problem will be between the consumer and supplier or retailer.

Fading

• Fading warranties differ with each manufacturer.

• Some laminate flooring manufacturers guarantee their floor not to fade due to sun or electrical lighting.

Gaps and Glue Voids (Glued Floors)

• A feeler gauge is used to indicate a gap in the glue and to measure the size of the gap.
• Voids or gaps in the glue will allow moisture to penetrate at the seam resulting in swelling along the plank edges.

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Water Damage to Laminate Flooring

Plumbing and Appliance Leaks

Water damage from plumbing and appliance leaks such as dishwashers, water heaters, washing machines and ice makers can result in buckling of a laminate floor. Often these leaks are very slow and go unnoticed.

Slow leaks are often difficult to identify as they are below the laminate where they penetrate into the laminates core material.

While you may not see the leak an inspector can tell that excess moisture is there by use of a moisture meter.

Flooding

Severe plumping leaks such as a pipe break or overflowing toilet will usually result in buckling of a laminate floor.

Water Damage to Laminate Floor From Concrete

Moisture can enter into the back of a laminate floor resulting in cupping. An entire floor may cup from a concrete floor that is too wet. This can occur even when a vapor barrier has been used below the laminate floor.

Testing for Moisture

All concrete floors should be tested for moisture prior to installation of the laminate floor covering.

Newly poured concrete should be allowed to cure for at least 60 days prior to installation of the laminate floor.

There are a number of ways to tests for moisture. Many of these such as electronic testing and calcium chloride testing should be performed by companies such as The Weinheimer Group LLC that have the proper training and equipment.

Easy Consumer or Installer Test for Concrete Moisture

Below is a test that can be used inexpensively, without training. This test is acceptable by many laminate flooring manufacturers.

Materials:

• 6 mil polyethylene film
• Duct tape.

Procedure:

• Using duct tape completely seal a 2′ x 2′ section of the polyethylene film down to an area of clean concrete. It is best to do this in several locations where the laminate floor is to be installed. At least one test per 500 square feet.
• After 72  hours remove the plastic. (one week is better)
• If the concrete is dark or wet below the plastic the subfloor is too wet to install a laminate floor.

Water Damage Maintenance and Pet Damage

• Spills and improper wet cleaning of a laminate floor can cause swelling at the laminate joints. This is often seen as puffy areas along the edge of the planks and frequently crosses between plank edges.
• The most common cause of  edge swelling over a large area is wet mopping or using popular floor cleaning equipment such as but not limited to the Swiffer Wet Jet.
• Sometimes it takes a year or two of use before maintenance related issues start to show up. Some floors may never experience noticeable damage by these cleaning methods and others will experience severe damage. Water damage is rarely covered by the laminate manufacturer.
• Spills and damage from pet urine are usually localized and show as swelled areas between planks. This is a site related condition and not a laminate floor problem and will almost never covered by a manufacturer warranty.

Sealant Around Laminate Edges

• Some laminate flooring manufacturers require a sealant to be used around objects such as sliding glass doors, kitchen cabinets, water hearers and in other areas prone to leaks and moisture.
• The proper sealant must be used to prevent lock in of the floor.
• The sealant must be properly applied or voids will be left for moisture to enter.
• Failure to use a sealant as specified by the laminate flooring manufacturer can void a warranty.

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